Sunday, 23 September 2012

You say hallo and I say goodbye




If I see someone I know in the street and neither of us feels like stopping to talk, we nod pleasantly, murmur adiós in unison and continue on our way.  There's something eerie about taking your leave of someone you’ve not yet greeted, and it seems more logical if, as often happens, one of us says hola while the other calls out adiós. 

Hasta luego is an alternative to adios for brief exchanges like these and means until later, implying a subsequent meeting.  There is also ¿qué tal? which amounts to how’s things?  Although we might enjoy explaining at considerable length how things are, enumerating woes, cataloguing joys and trotting out a complaint or two, this does not require a detailed reply. The correct response is muy bien, gracias ¿y usted? (or tú, depending on the relationship) - very well, thanks, and you? This gives others the chance to wedge a toe in the conversational door by enumerating woes, cataloguing joys and trotting out the odd complaint.

¿Qué hay? is tricky. It means what is there? and implies what’s new?  You won’t get out of this one with muy bien, gracias ¿y usted?  and all you can do is cover every option by simultaneously smiling, shaking your head and nodding.  Once again, lengthy details are not appreciated.

The Spanish once claimed to be irritated by our abuse and over-use of please and thank you.  I can’t be the only person who has had a tentative por favor shot down in flames with a stern and almost threatening SIN favor. 

This is said with kindness and is polite in its own way, but I was never grateful for being exempted from saying it.  Now, of course, the Spanish use both please and thank you as much as we do, possibly in response to hearing it on all sides from huge numbers of English-speaking tourists and foreign residents and not wishing to appear discourteous by failing to reciprocate. 

What these same English-speakers often overlook, though, is the importance attached by the Spanish to greetings.

On entering any non-self service shop, office or waiting room in Málaga, Murcia, Madrid or Medina del Campo good manners require you to look round the assembled company.  Then you verbally embrace them with a collective buenos días, buenas tardes or buenas noches.

greetings are expected on entering
Some answer, some grunt and others only nod but no-one ignores you.  Greetings are expected, as are farewells when departing. 

This also applies to entering and leaving lifts where reserved English-speakers can earn themselves a reputation for surliness.

 Often the ritual appears to be too much effort even for the Spanish and they limit themselves to a truncated buenas… on entering and another buenas… on exiting.
... and leaving

Before everybody had television, DVDs and computers and males began spending the evening with their families, pavements were less deserted late at night than they are now. People went out on the town, men returned from dominoes, cards or less innocent pastimes at their local bar or el casino, when thiswas still basically a gentlemen’s club and not somewhere to lose money.  They all greeted everyone who crossed their paths and murmured buenas noches or simply adiós. 

Dog-walkers in urban areas still observe the niceties but the most you can expect from a dog-less pedestrian is a sideways glance and a hastening of the step. Notwithstanding a growing lack of faith in the outcome of late-night encounters, the Spanish continue to regard greetings and leave-takings as an important aspect of social intercourse.

Earlier this year their continuing importance surfaced in La Toba, a very small village in the province of Guadalajara.  A mayoral order advised villagers not to spit, slurp their soup or fart in public.  And yes, this exactly the verb he used: tirar pedos.  Had the mayor wished to be more mealy-mouthed, he would have used the polite term of soltar ventosidades to break wind.   

Another injunction was to “greet those present on entering and leaving closed premises”. 

So be warned: not saying hallo and goodbye in Spain is as heinous a social shortcoming as farting in public.